The Times
July 29, 2005

A mecca for tourists who usually come hungry, Lambertville has a flurry of smaller restaurants, tucked into former storefronts and bars. But the grand dame of the small city’s restaurant scene remains the Lambertville Station which sits regally at the end of Bridge Street, overlooking the Delaware River.

Designed in 1865 by the same architect who created the Capitol dome in Washington, D.C., the Station is a designated historic landmark. Built to satisfy the growing amount of railroad traffic, it eventually closed and sat abandoned for years before being sold and converted to a restaurant in 1981.

The intervening years have brought prosperity, as well as a gleaming oak-accented interior. In addition to a pub for casual dining, a prix fixe $12.95 Monday-Friday “sunset menu” from 4 to 6:30 p.m., an extensive wine list and a brunch each Sunday, the owners recently expanded the outdoor dining area. But inside tables with a view of the outside street and the passage of Lambertville traffic remain sought after, no matter the season.

Chef Amy Lettiere came to the station about eight years ago, revamping the menu and creating what General Manager Jim Hall defines as American-style cuisine. That translates into a fine dining menu with lots of steaks, poultry and seafood, and a wild game menu January through March.

Salads and appetizers can be adventurous. A tropical salad, $4.95, is sweet and tangy with mandarin oranges, shaved coconut and the house honey-mustard dressing. The dressing is so popular that the recipe is available at the front desk, along with one for the lightly sweetened, dense coconut bread offered to each diner.

Panko asparagus, $7.95, has an unusual appearance: The asparagus spears come to the table wrapped in crunchy brown robes of panko crumbs and prosciutto. But they are delightful, accompanied by a chive-infused dipping sauce.

A cup of vegetable soup, $3.50, the soup of the day when we visited, was thick and satisfying, crammed with plenty of fresh vegetables. The hearty, flavorful house Manhattan clam chowder, $4.95, was brimming with vegetables and pieces of clam. Satisfying on a pleasant summer night, it would be an outstanding choice on a brisk winter day.

Mushroom gravy was a rich accompaniment to a tender six-ounce filet mignon, $17.95, which came to the table cooked to a perfect medium. A hefty serving of thick, hearty garlic mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables completed the plate.

A pan-seared European-style roasted chicken breast, $17.95, came closest to being a low-calorie meal. Set on a bed of arugula, it was surround by slices of pale tomatoes and artichoke hearts and drizzled with lemon oil. Fat balls of fresh mozzarella were its main indulgence.

A generous-sized buffalo T-bone steak, $25.95, was cooked to a perfect medium. Tender to chew, it was a pleasant respite from beef until the effects of the heavily applied Montreal steak seasoning overwhelmed the palate. The wait staff was concerned and gracious about sending it back to the kitchen and offered to bring a replacement entrée.

The star among the entrees was a roasted half-duck, $21.95, crisp on the outside and tender inside with the sweet, crunchy skin enhanced by a port wine glaze. The duck came on a bed of rice pilaf and was decorated with a cascade of fresh, sweet blueberries, blackberries and strawberries.

The ice cream truffle half, $4.95, was made of rich vanilla ice cream rolled in cookie crumbs, then finished in a Belgian chocolate shell. It outshone an individual fruit tart, $7.95, which was filled with not-all-ripe fruit on a bed of custard, a slice of key lime pie, $5.95, held its own in the lineup.

Lambertville continues to build its reputation as a restaurant destination, with new eateries opening on a regular basis. The Station looms above them all with its 19th century grandeur, Lettiere’s fine menu and the pleasant view.

return to top
return to home page