Primetime Art & Entertainment
September 2005 Issue

Cuisine: The menu is designed for broad appeal. Fare is neither ethnic nor dominated by any one particular culinary style. The preparation is solidly contemporary American and eclectic. Meat dishes predominate.

Atmosphere: The handsome building shelters a variety of pleasing atmospheres and settings (al fresco, platform, Victorian Room, Delaware Room, Station Pub), each with a charm that can calibrate nicely to a variety of moods and events.

Service: The waitstaff is well versed in its art. Pleasant professionalism characterizes the service.

Prices: (3) Soups $3.50-$5.95, (5) Appetizers $7.95-$9.95, (4) Salads $4.75-$4.95, (11) Entrées $17.95-$25.95, (10) Desserts $4.95-$7.95

Website: http://www.lambertvillestation.com

If I may borrow a buzz term from the bizness bunch, a case can be made that "presenting satisfying choices" is Lambertville Station's "core competence." That's not to imply that other restaurants do not present satisfying menu choices. Sometimes the claim tends to surpass the reality, though. Even national hamburger chains regale presenting choices. Most crow that they will cheerily prepare their specialties "your way" (at least the actors in the commercials do are cheery--as for the employees you encounter in their real-world chow lines, that's another matter). Nonetheless, getting it "your way" does not compromise the fare's universal qualities like being nutrition-free and taste-lost.

"Presenting satisfying choices" at Lambertville Station isn't restricted to the food. It's more encompassing. The phrase refers to the entire dining experience starting with your choice of where to be seated. The handsome two-and-a-half story stone building was designed by Thomas Ustick Walter, the architect who designed the dome on the United States Capitol in Washington, D.C. Completed in 1867, the station served as the headquarters of the Belvidere Delaware Railroad which catered to passengers traveling on the local lines from Belvidere to Trenton. The current restaurant has thrived since 1983 when it opened for business after an intensive fourteen-month refurbishment. Today the building shelters a variety of pleasing rooms. Each exudes a particular charm that can calibrate nicely to a variety of moods or events.

In nice weather, the scenery and energy of Lambertville provide a pleasing backdrop for al fresco dining on the porch. The feel is Europeanesque, easy...like Sunday morning. Guests can opt to stake out a table on the enclosed airy platform that partially wraps the Station and offers a vista out over the Lambertville street scene. The Victorian Room and Delaware Room offer classy, casual upscale venues while the Station Pub is a cozy warm-wood clad brasserie, ideal for kicking back with a fine imported beer.

The plethora of dining venues makes the Lambertville Station an ideal spot for bands of friends to meet because they can suit their supping surroundings to their mood. Likewise for the menu which is designed to accommodate diverse palates. I've visited Lambertville Station often over the years. This eatery attracts a disproportionate share of large groups. The menu design, in conjunction with the varied dining venues, fuels its enviable spot-to-get-together popularity. As does the service. I'll inject at this juncture that the waitstaff is well-versed in its art. The ultimate example is DJ, a server who has toiled there for about two decades. DJ is an exemplar of the pleasant professionalism that defines the service.

Back to the menu. It's not extensive (that's not a bad thing), however it is designed for broad appeal. For one thing, the fare is neither ethnic nor dominated by any one particular culinary style. I love ethnic foods. However, in the context of common ground for a group, ethnic food can turn into a deal-killer/evening-ruiner for some members. The Lambertville Station menu is not bound to any one culinary tradition. The fare is solidly contemporary American and eclectic.

Choices range from old standbys to more adventurous or exotic dishes that, most importantly, span the great American culinary divide. That's the gulf that separates uncompromising colonists hunkered down in the meat-and-potato-only-thank-you camp and pioneers exploring craving-something-different territory. To be sure, the menu is stocked with familiar standards like filet mignon, roasted duck, roasted chicken, and prime rib. However, for years the local landmark has also cooked up "wild" dishes--game entrées like ostrich, elk, alligator, venison, boar, and others. Thus culinary traditionalists can find terra firma, while the adventurers can explore. Everyone walks away happy. And full.

Lambertville portions have always been generous. Among the appetizers, lobster and crabmeat partner with artichoke hearts and julienned pepper and red onion that is served with tangy tarragon-Dijon dressing. Asparagus wrapped with prosciutto and encrusted with Panko breading gets a little kick from rémoulade along with sour cream and chive dipping sauce. Mozzarella is served with tomatoes, cucumbers, and prosciutto over a bed of arugula drizzled with lemon oil for a nice gout of the Mediterranean. Shrimp cocktail and calamari round out the apps.

Roasted rack of lamb receives French treatment, crusted a bit heavily with Dijon-rosemary and moistened with a classic demi-glaze. Veal and crab team for a rich treat atop rice pilaf wetted with white wine-butter sauce. And longtime visitors of the Station are familiar with the 16-ounce or 40-ounce [sic] Station prime. Richness-cutting horseradish accompanies each oversized dish.

I should note that before summer beats its final retreat, you might want to take advantage of the "Sunset on the Delaware" dinner that is offered Monday to Friday from 4-6:30. For $12.95, you have your choice of soup or salad, entrée, and dessert. You also drink in one of the finest inland vistas in the region.

Speaking of desserts, two have stayed popular for a long time. Key lime pie is fruity and bitey. The Grand Marnier sabayon layers creamy custard and whipped cream studded with berries between phyllo dough for a rich, filling finale. Before you leave, you can purchase coconut bread to take home. Coconut bread has greeted guests for years and has been a longtime signature favorite at the Station.

With multiple dining settings, amiable service, and an adventurous leg on a contemporary American menu, the Lambertville Station satisfies a wide swath of tastes-besides serving generous portions. And though you can't fill all the people all the time, most leave satisfied.

Robert Gordon welcomes comments or suggestions for other restaurants you would like to see reviewed. E-mail him at r.gordon33@verizon.net.

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